For 2 dc cluster: Yo,
insert hook in st or ch sp indicated, yo, pull lp through, yo, pull
through 2 lps on hook, yo, insert hook in same st or ch sp, yo, pull lp
through, yo, pull through 2 lps on hook, yo, pull through all 3 lps on
hook
For 3 dc cluster: Yo,
insert hook in st or ch sp indicated, yo, pull lp through, yo, pull
through 2 lps on hook, (yo, insert hook in same st or ch sp, yo, pull
through, yo, pull through 2 lps on hook) 2 times, yo, pull through all 4
lps on hook
For Vst: (dc, ch 2, dc) in st or ch sp indicated
Pattern Notes:
Work into ch-2 sps of Vsts unless otherwise noted
Skip all stitches listed within { }
Doily
Rnd 1: With Rust, ch 6, sl st in first ch to form ring; ch 2, 2 dc cl (see Special Stitches) in ring, ch 3, (3 dc cl—see Special Stitches—in ring, ch 3) 7 times, join with sl st in top of 2-dc cl. Fasten off. (8 ch-3 sps made)
Rnd 2: Join Dk
Brown with sl st in first ch-3 sp, (ch 2, 2 dc cl, ch 2, 3 dc cl) in
same sp as joining, ch 2, *(3 dc cl, ch 2, 3 dc cl) in next ch-3 sp, ch
2; repeat from * around, join with sl st in top of 2-dc cl. Fasten off. (16 ch-2 sps made)
Rnd 3: Join Rust with sl st in first ch-2 sp, (ch 5, dc) in same sp as joining, Vst (see Special Stitches) in each ch-2 sp around, join with sl st in 3rd ch of ch-5. Fasten off. (16 Vsts made)
Rnd 4: Join Camel
with sc in ch-2 sp of first Vst, 7 dc in ch-2 sp of next Vst, (sc in
next Vst, 7 dc in next Vst) around, join with sl st in first sc. Fasten
off.
Rnd 5: Join Rust
with sc in first sc, ch 4, skip next 3 dc, (sc, ch 3, sc) in next dc, ch
4, skip next 3 dc, *sc in next sc, ch 4, skip next 3 dc, (sc, ch 3, sc)
in next dc, ch 4, skip next 3 dc; repeat from * around, join with sl st
in first sc. Fasten off.
Rnd 6: Join Orange with sc in first ch-3 sp, (ch 3, dc in 3rd ch from hook) 3 times, skip next {ch-4, sc, ch-4}, *sc in next ch-3 sp, (ch 3, dc in 3rd ch from hook) 3 times, skip next {ch-4, sc, ch-4}; repeat from * around, join with sl st in first sc. Fasten off. (24 eyelet sps made)
Rnd 7: Join Rust
with sl st in first eyelet sp, (ch 3, 3 dc) in same sp as joining, ch 1,
(4 dc in next Eyelet sp, ch 1) around, join with sl st in top of ch-3.
Fasten off. (24 groups of 4-dc, 24 ch-1 sps made)
Rnd 8: Join Orange with sc in first ch-1 sp, ch 5, (sc in next ch-1 sp, ch 5) around, join with sl st in first sc. Fasten off. (24 ch-5 sps made)
Rnd 9: Join Dk
Green with sl st in first ch-5 sp, (ch 2, 2 dc cl, ch 3, 3 dc cl) in
same sp as joining, ch 3, *(3 dc cl, ch 3, 3 dc cl) in next ch-5 sp, ch
3; repeat from * around, join with sl st in top of 2-dc cl. Fasten off. (48 clusters, 48 ch-3 sps made)
Rnd 10: Join Rust with sl st in first ch-3 sp, (ch 5, dc) in same sp as joining, Vst in each ch-3 sp around, join with sl st in 3rd ch of ch-5. Fasten off. (48 Vsts made)
Rnd 11: Join
Coral with sc in ch sp of first Vst, 7 dc in ch-2 sp of next Vst, (sc in
next Vst, 7 dc in next Vst) around, join with sl st in first sc. Fasten
off.
Rnd 12: Join
Rust with sc in first sc, ch 4, skip next 3 dc, (sc, ch 3, sc) in next
dc, ch 4, skip next 3 dc, *sc in next sc, ch 4, skip next 3 dc, (sc, ch
3, sc) in next dc, ch 4, skip next 3 dc; repeat from * around, join with
sl st in first sc. Fasten off.
1. 8 PB en círculo mágico
2. en cada PB, 3 PA cerrados juntos + 3 cad
3. enlazar con PB en cada espacio de 3 cad y en cada "cluster", 5 cad. Al llegar al último, hacer 2 cad y enlazar con 1 PA, lo que nos deja el punto en el medio}
4. igual a 3
5. igual a 3 con 6 cad
6. igual a 5
seguir hasta el tamaño deseado
Se puede volver a hacer un cluster en los espacios
Si se quiere cambiar de color se puede hacer haciendo un PA doble y cerrarlo con el nuevo color
1. 12 PA en círculo mágico
2. en cada PA 1 PA + 2 cad
3. en cada espacio de 2 cad, 3 PA cerrados juntos + 2 cad
4. enlazar en un espacio con PB, 5 cad
5. en cada espacio de 5 cad, 1 PB - 1 MP - 1 PA - 1 cad - 1 PA - 1 MP - 1 PB
6. enlazar en el cad con PB, 7 cad
7. enlazar en el espacio con PB, 8 cad
8. cubrir con 9 PB
Hacer dos piezas iguales, colocar dos CDs enfrentados entre ambas piezas, en la vuelta 8 la segunda pieza enlaza con la primera
1. en círculo mágico, [3 PA + 2 cad] * 6
2. en cada grupo de 3 PA y en cada espacio de 2cad, 3 PA cerrados juntos +3 cad
3. en cada espacio de 3 cad, 4 PA
4. sobre cada grupo de 4 PA, 4 PA cerrados juntos + 5 cad
5. en cada grupo de 5cad, 3 PB + 1 cad + 3PB
6. enlazar en cada cad con PB, 3 cad, 3 cad cerrados con PB en pto inicial, 3 cad
Hacer dos piezas iguales, colocar dos CDs enfrentados entre las dos, en la segunda en la 6ta vuelta enlazar con la primera
Chain 4, slip stitch into 1st chain to form a ring.
Chain 2 (counts as 1 dc); work 9 dc into the ring.
Slip stitch into the 2nd chain of the beginning chain-2 to close the round. Fasten off. [10 stitches]
ROUND 2 : Use colour B
Begin in any stitch.
Chain 3 (counts as 1 tr); work 1 tr into the same stitch (as shown above);
Work 2 tr into each of the next 9 stitches.
Slip stitch into the 3rd chain of the beginning chain-3 to close the round. Fasten off. [20 stitches]
ROUND 3 : Use colour C
Begin in any stitch.
Chain 3 (counts as 1 tr); work 1 tr into the same stitch; chain 2 (as shown above);
*Skip 1 stitch; work 2 tr's into the next stitch; chain 2*
Repeat between ** 8 more times;
Slip stitch into the 3rd chain of the beginning chain-3 to close the round. Fasten off. [10 tr groups and 10 ch-2 spaces]
ROUND 4 : Use colour D
Begin in any chain-2 space.
Chain 3 (counts as 1 tr); work 1 tr into the same space; chain 2; 2 tr into same space;
*work a double V-stitch in next chain-2 space* (as shown above);
Repeat between ** 8 more times;
Slip stitch into the 3rd chain of the beginning chain-3 to close the round.
DO NOT FASTEN OFF!!!!
Before you begin round 5, you will need to make 3 slip stitches to make sure you will be starting off in the right place.
1. Slip stitch into the top of the treble immediately to the left of where you closed round 4.
2. Slip stitch into the next treble.
3. Slip stitch into the chain-2 space immediately to the left (as shown by my needle in the above photo).
You are now ready to start round 5.....
ROUND 5 : continue with colour D
Chain 3 (counts as 1 tr); work 6 tr into the same space;
See where my needle is pointing in the above picture? This is the space between the double V-stitches.
Work 1 dc in the space between the double V-stitches ( as shown above);
*7 tr into next chain-2 space; 1 dc into space between V-stitches*
Repeat between ** 8 more times;
Slip stitch into 3rd chain of beginning chain-3 to close the round. Fasten off. [10 shells]
ROUND 6 : Use colour E
Begin in 4th (centre) treble of any shell.
Chain 12 (counts as 1 tr and chain-9);
*1 tr in 4th (centre) tr of next shell (shown by my needle in the above photo); chain 9*
Repeat between ** 8 more times
Slip stitch into 3rd chain of beginning chain-12 (shown by my needle in the above photo) to close the round.
Fasten off. [10 tr and 10 chain-9 loops]
ROUND 7 : Use colour F
Begin
in the top of any treble stitch. If you aren't sure about this, have a
good look at my hook in the above photo - the top of the treble stitch
is the chain that sits slightly to the right of the post of the stitch
(the sticky up bit if that makes sense!) Pass your hook under both
loops, as shown by my hook above.
Chain 4 (counts as 1 tr plus chain 1);
Skip 1 chain;
*1 tr in next chain; skip 1 chain; chain 1*
Repeat between ** 3 more times;
You should have made 4 tr's along the chain-9 loop, with skipped stitches and chain-1's in between (as shown above).
Now see my needle? That's the top of the next treble stitch......
so work 1 tr into the top of this next treble stitch.
Skip 1 chain; chain 1;
*1 tr in next chain; skip 1 chain; chain 1*
Repeat between ** 3 more times;
1 tr into the top of the next treble stitch; skip 1 chain; chain 1;
*1 tr in next chain; skip 1 chain; chain 1*
Repeat between ** 3 more times;
Repeat the text shown in red until you arrive back to where you started.......
Slip stitch into 3rd chain of beginning chain-3 to close the round. Fasten off. [50 tr and 50 ch-1 spaces]
Now
have a quick count to make sure you do have 50 stitches - this must be
accurate or else the next round won't work out! Ask me how I know
this????!!!!!
ROUND 8 : Use colour G
Begin in any chain-1 space.
Chain 3 (counts as 1 tr); 1 tr in same space; chain 2; 2 tr in same space;
1 dc in next space;
double V-stitch in next space; 1 dc in next space;
*double V-stitch in next space; 1 dc in next space;*
Repeat between ** until you get back to where you started.
Slip stitch into beginning chain-3 to close the round. Fasten off. [25 double V-stitches and 25 dc]
ROUND 8 : Use colour H
Begin in any chain-2 space.
Chain 3 (counts as 1 tr);; 1 tr in same space; chain 2; 2 tr in same space;
double V-stitch in next space (shown by my needle in the above photo);
*double V-stitch in next space*
Repeat between ** until you get back to where you started.
Slip stitch into beginning chain-3 to close the round. Fasten off. [25 double V-stitches]
ROUND 9 : Use colour C
Begin in any chain-2 space.
Chain 3 (counts as 1 tr); 4 tr in same space;
1 dc in space between double V-stitches (shown by my needle in the above photo);
*5 tr in next chain-2 space; 1 dc in space between double V-stitches*
Repeat between ** until you get back to where you started.
Slip stitch into beginning chain-3 to close the round. Fasten off. [25 shells]
I
like to give my mandala a little bit of a light steam press and a
gentle stretch after round 9, just to relax the crochet and even out any
lumps and bumps.
Your
mandala should be measuring around 25 or 26 cm across - ideally you need
about a 2 cm gap all the way around between your mandala edge and the
ring. You can test it out by gently pulling out the mandala and making
sure it reaches to both sides of the ring ok - it should be tight!
However, don't worry too much if you've only less than 2cm arounf, it'll
just mean that it will end up a little looser inside the hoop.
Get your stitch markers ready, we're going to stretch and attach before we start crocheting the final round.......
I
usually find that 5 or 6 markers will do the trick. Pass them through
the 3rd/centre treble stitch of a shell, THROUGH BACK LOOPS ONLY, then
attach the markers to the ring.
You'll
probably find that the crochet stitch stretches quite a bit and looks
rather big and loopy, but don't worry, it doesn't matter.
Ok......ready to begin? Here we go with the final round..................
ROUND 10 : Use colour B.
WORK IN BACK LOOPS ONLY (BLO) for this round.
Begin
in the top of any dc, BLO. The top of the dc stitch will sit slightly
to the right of the post of the stitch - I've shown you with my needle
in the above photo where the top of the stitch is. Remember Back Loop
Only.
Pull through a loop of new colour and Chain 1.
Work 1 slip stitch into each of the next 3 stitches (BLO). This will take you to the 3rd/centre tr of the shell.
Chain 3.
You
will now need to move your working crochet and yarn to the back of the
ring. So move your hook and crochet so that it sits to the back of the
mandala, and push your yarn ball through to the back as well.
Pull
your chain-3 against your ring, lifting it up and towards you so that
it bends over the edge of the ring from back to front. Your yarn ball
and working yarn will naturally come to the front again too.
Put your hook into the same back loop where your chain 3 was made......
.....and work a slip stitch to anchor the chain loop around the edge of the ring.
That's your first attachment made - only 24 more to go!!
Work 1 slip stitch into each of the next 6 stitches (BLO). This will take you to the 3rd/centre tr of the next shell.
Chain 3.
Pass your crochet, hook and yarn through the ring so that it sits at the back of the mandala.....
...then
pull your chain-3 up and over the edge of the ring from back to front.
Your yarn ball and working yarn will move to the front again.
Work 1 slip stitch into the same back loop where your chain 3 was made to form the attachment.
Work 1 slip stitch into each of the next 6 stitches (BLO). This will take you to the 3rd/centre tr of the next shell.
Chain 3.
Pass your crochet, hook and yarn through the ring so that it sits at the back of the mandala.
Bend your chain-3 over the edge of the ring from back to front so that crochet, hook and yarn moves to the front.
Work 1 slip stitch into the same back loop where your chain 3 was made to form the attachment.
Repeat the text shown in red, removing the stitch markers as you come to them.
There is a point where it all looks very wonky indeed and as if it won't possibly stretch and lay flat.
Don't panic!
Keep
calm and carry on crocheting your slip stitches, gently stretching out
the mandala as you work, easing those chain loops up and over the edge
of the ring.
Eventually
you'll arrive right back where you started. To close this round, we're
going to use an invisible fastening off technique. When you've made a
slip stitch in the last stitch, snip off your yarn and pull your hook
upwards to extend the loop until the tail end pulls right out of the
stitch. Take care not to pull the slip stitch tight.
Thread
the tail end onto a darning needle. Pass the needle underneath the very
first slip stitch you made in this round (shown in the above photo)
Now
pass the needle down through the centre of the last slip stitch you
made in this round, taking the tail end right through to the back of the
work.
Pretty neat eh?!
You
need to take care when you darn in your tail ends for each round of the
mandala - you need to do some careful weaving of the needle and yarn
underneath and through stitches so that you secure the ends but keep
them as invisible as possible. Your mandala should look as good on the
reverse as it does on the front.....now there's a challenge for ya!
